A QUICK HISTORY AND A FEW GEMS
Dublin’s Chancery Street holds a wealth of history, from its origins as Pill Lane to its current mix of old and new. Recently, I explored this fascinating street on foot, uncovering its stories and observing some changes along the way.
Chancery Street’s original name was Pill Lane, with some sources suggesting the name could relate to a waterway called “The Pill” or could be a reference to apothecaries and physicians once situated nearby. The street was renamed Chancery Street in the late 1800s, reflecting its proximity to the Court of Chancery, a significant legal institution located in the adjacent Four Courts complex.
In the 17th and 18th centuries, Chancery Street was primarily residential. You’d find homes of merchants, professionals, and some grander townhouses. During the 19th century, as Dublin faced population growth and housing shortages, many original houses on Chancery Street were subdivided into tenements. This led to overcrowded living conditions and a decline in the area’s status. In the early 20th century, Dublin Corporation initiated social housing programs. This led to the demolition of some of the old tenements and the construction of new apartment blocks, like Chancery House in the 1930s.
Like many inner-city areas, Chancery Street has faced its share of challenges with urban decay and social issues. However, efforts towards heritage preservation and recent investment in the broader Smithfield area signal a potential for positive transformations in the future.
Sadly, it seems Fegan’s 1924 Cafe, a unique cash-free establishment, is no longer operating. While there’s no official confirmation, online listings suggest it’s permanently closed. Another change is the apparent closure of the longstanding Hughes Bar. It’s a recent development, with limited information available. The arrival of the Hampton by Hilton Hotel signals a shift for the area, replacing a less aesthetically pleasing building. Just across from the former Hughes Bar lies the delightful Chancery Park, a haven worth exploring in more detail (see the dedicated section below).
My walk continued along the tram tracks, bringing me to the Four Courts stop. Beyond the iconic Four Courts building, I found the Dublin District Court County Office with its rather long name, as well as the historic Bridewell Garda Station. Housed in a grand Georgian building, the Bridewell is a fascinating landmark. It opened in 1802 as a prison and carries the historically significant name “Bridewell.” Its Latin inscription, “Fiat justitia ruat caelum” (“Let justice be done though the heavens fall”) adds an intriguing touch.
Further along, the striking tower of St. Michan’s Church caught my eye. This 11th-century church stands as a testament to the deep history embedded in Dublin’s streets. As I approached Smithfield, the atmosphere shifted. The cobbled expanse of Smithfield Square, a former horse market, opened up, showcasing its rich past. The old Jameson Distillery chimney, along with modern additions like the Light House Cinema, highlight the area’s blend of history and vibrancy.
Chancery Park is a relatively small, enclosed park located off of Chancery Street. It provides a welcome green space and a respite from the urban surroundings. The park was designed in the Art Deco style, popular in the 1920s and 1930s. This is evident in its geometric layout, stylised design elements, and the use of materials like brick and concrete. Notable features include a weighbridge “kiosk” building (now used as a community resource), ornamental gates, and a central grassy area with benches.
Chancery Park was built in the 1930s, along with the adjacent Chancery House apartment complex as part of a Dublin Corporation social housing initiative. The park and housing complex were designed by Herbert George Simms, a prominent architect who served as Dublin Corporation’s Housing Architect (1932-1948). Both Chancery Park and Chancery House are considered notable examples of Dublin’s Art Deco heritage, providing a glimpse into Dublin’s social history and the architectural trends of the early 20th century.