2024 Photo Diary

AN AREA ONCE KNOWN AS PIGTOWN

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As Christmas is approaching it might be a good idea to discuss Limerick ham.

A Tale of Two Christmas Meats: Limerick Ham and Dublin Spiced Beef

When I was young my mother insisted in getting Limerick ham as well as the traditional turkey. At the time we lived in a remote area in Donegal and the logistics of supplying the Christmas table was/were more than complicated to say the least. One year my grandmother invited us to Dublin for a week at Christmas. Instead of ham my Grandmother served Spiced Beef and I was horrified as it looked like and tasted like mud or at least what I thought mud would taste like.

My childhood memory paints a vivid picture of Christmas culinary traditions! It seems my mother, like many Irish families, held Limerick ham in high esteem. Let’s delve into why this ham is so special, and then explore the “muddy” depths of spiced beef.

Limerick Ham: A Christmas Crown Jewel

Limerick ham’s reputation is built on centuries of tradition. Here’s why it often graces the Christmas table:

Unique Production: Limerick ham is dry-cured, meaning it’s preserved with salt and often sugar, but no water is added. This process results in a dense, intensely flavourful ham with a distinctive texture.
Smoked Flavor: Many Limerick hams are traditionally smoked over beechwood or oak, adding another layer of complexity to the taste.
Versatility: Limerick ham can be enjoyed hot or cold. It can be the centrepiece of the Christmas feast, and then its leftovers transform into delicious sandwiches, salads, and snacks.
My mother’s dedication to sourcing Limerick ham, even in a remote area, speaks volumes about its cherished place in Irish cuisine.

Spiced Beef: A Dublin Tradition

My encounter with spiced beef highlights a fascinating regional difference. While ham reigns supreme throughout much of Ireland, Dublin has a long-standing love affair with spiced beef.

Origins: Spiced beef likely has roots in Jewish culinary traditions, brought to Dublin centuries ago.
Flavour Profile: Spiced beef is typically a brisket that’s cured with salt, sugar, and a potent blend of spices like pepper, cloves, and pimento. It’s then boiled or steamed, resulting in a rich, almost gamey flavour that can be quite strong.
Acquired Taste: As I experienced, spiced beef is definitely an acquired taste! Its unique flavour and texture can be polarising.
It’s understandable why my young palate, accustomed to the familiar saltiness of ham, was taken aback by the intense spices and darker colour of spiced beef.

Bacon vs. Ham: A Meaty Distinction

Finally, let’s clarify the difference between bacon and ham:

Cut: Both come from the pig, but bacon is typically taken from the belly, while ham comes from the hind leg.
Cure: Both are cured, but bacon is often cured with a greater variety of spices and smoked more heavily.
Cooking: Bacon is typically cooked until crispy, while ham is often roasted or boiled.
In essence, bacon is prized for its crispy fat and smoky flavour, while ham offers a leaner, more substantial meatiness.

My Christmas memory highlights the fascinating regional differences in Irish culinary traditions. While Limerick ham holds a special place in many hearts, Dublin’s spiced beef offers a unique and bold alternative. Both meats contribute to the rich tapestry of Irish Christmas cuisine.

Roches Street was the epicentre of Limerick’s bacon industry, and several factors contributed to its rise:

19th-Century Growth: The industry took off in the 1800s, with companies like Matterson’s, O’Mara’s, Shaw’s, and Denny’s establishing large-scale factories. These factories employed thousands of workers, primarily from Limerick city and the surrounding county.  
Matterson’s Bacon Factory: This was one of the largest and most well-known factories on Roches Street. They were known for their innovative techniques and large-scale production.
O’Mara’s: Another prominent factory on Roches Street, O’Mara’s also contributed significantly to Limerick’s bacon output.  

“Pigtown” Atmosphere: The area was characterised by the sights, sounds, and smells of the industry. The constant activity of pig deliveries, slaughtering, processing, and the transportation of finished products created a unique atmosphere.  
Community Impact: The bacon industry was vital to Limerick’s economy, providing employment and shaping the social fabric of the city. Many families had generations working in the factories.  

Decline: Sadly, the industry declined in the latter part of the 20th century due to factors like increased competition from European imports, changing consumer habits, and the rise of supermarkets.

Additional Details & Verification:

Limerick City and County Council Archives hold extensive records and resources related to the Limerick bacon industry, including photographs, documents, and oral histories. These archives were crucial in compiling the book “Pigtown: A History of Limerick’s Bacon Industry.”

“Pigtown: A History of Limerick’s Bacon Industry” by Ruth Guiry is considered the definitive account of this industry. It was commissioned by the Limerick Pork Butchers’ Society and provides detailed research and insights into the history of the industry, the people involved, and its impact on Limerick.

The Journal.ie has published articles featuring firsthand accounts from former bacon factory workers, providing valuable personal perspectives on the industry’s history and decline.

There are a number of buildings along Roches Street that are of interest.

No 15 Roches Street: A very plain but substantial former mill building. While seemingly out of context in this Georgian district, Roches Street was once dominated by large scale industrial activity. The vast scale of this structure, and the adjacent corn store, when viewed as an ensemble, forms a monumental and historic element to a streetscape stripped of much of its architectural interest.

No 22 Roches Street: A formidable building set around a long courtyard on three sides. With mainly the ground floor in use this structure lies largely unused. As one of a group of industrial buildings on this street they indicate to the source of the commercial wealth and industrial and agricultural activity centred in Limerick City. This building may have been part of the Bannatyne operations on Roche’s Street.

No 31 Roches Street: A formal Victorian building which, due to its height and good condition, holds a prominence on this side of Roches Street. The combination of the architrave surrounds, the corniced sill courses and the red brick combine to add artistic interest to the façade.

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