ALL PHOTOGRAPHS BY WILLIAM MURPHY
ST JOHNS’S CHURCHYARD ON THE DUBLIN ROAD IN KILKENNY [THE MONDAY SESSION]
An Examination of St. John’s Churchyard, Dublin Road, Kilkenny: Historical Context, Management Dynamics, War Graves, and the Ecological Presence of Red Valerian
Introduction: The Enigmatic Graveyard on Dublin Road
This report details an inquiry into an old cemetery on the Dublin Road in Kilkenny. Our observations reveal a site of considerable historical, cultural, and ecological significance, prompting a deeper look into its past, current management, war graves, and the notable presence of Red Valerian.
Initially, the graveyard appeared to be unaffiliated with any church or parish. It also showed distinct maintenance zones: one heavily overgrown and potentially hazardous, and the other noticeably better kept. These initial perceptions form the core of our examination.
Historic graveyards, like this one, are more than just burial grounds. They’re invaluable repositories of built, natural, and cultural heritage, often protected by law. These sites offer a tangible link to our ancestors, housing not just gravestones and crypts but often remnants of old church buildings. Beyond their historical importance, they are crucial havens for nature, sometimes supporting rare plant species and providing vital refuge for wildlife, including bats, birds, and owls. The multifaceted role of these sites means that any conservation or maintenance work requires meticulous planning and careful execution to ensure the preservation of all these elements.
St. John’s Churchyard: A Deep Dive into its History and Affiliation
The cemetery on the Dublin Road, situated between Maudlin Street and Dublin Road, is definitively identified as St. John’s Churchyard.
While it might seem from a contemporary perspective that the graveyard isn’t associated with a church, given the absence of an active church building, this belies a deep and continuous historical connection to various ecclesiastical entities. The site was once linked to a church that served the Magdalen hospital for lepers, showing an early association with religious and charitable institutions. St. John’s parish itself has ancient origins, predating the Norman occupation of Kilkenny City, with its original church likely near Maudlin Street.
Following the Norman occupation, it became associated with St. Stephen. By 1211, three distinct local parishes—Fennell, Kilmologga, and St. John’s proper—were granted to the Augustinian order in St. John’s Priory by William Marshall. The Reformation later led to these smaller mediaeval parishes merging into the civil parish of St. John’s.
From 1800 onwards, the church building on the site became consistently known as St. John’s. Historically, it had been referred to as the “Chapel of the Magdelens” after losing its parochial status.
A chapel on the site was rebuilt in 1796 and remained in use until 1847, when it was dismantled and its footprint integrated into the graveyard. Between 1908 and the 1920s, the old church structure was repurposed as a hall, hosting concerts and notable artists such as John McCormack. Finally, in the 1950s, the building was taken down, and its dressed stone was used in the construction of the Collier wing of St. Kieran’s College. This progression shows that the site has always been deeply intertwined with religious and community life, even as its physical structures transformed. The current lack of an active church building on the premises represents a stage in its long evolution, rather than an absence of historical ecclesiastical ties. For visitors or local residents, a full appreciation of the site’s heritage requires looking beyond its immediate physical appearance to understand the centuries of continuous, albeit evolving, religious affiliation and function.
The graveyard itself bears witness to its long history, featuring 13th-century coffin-shaped slabs. The earliest known inscription on a tombstone dates to 1699, standing as the sole 17th-century monument, while 93 18th-century monuments are also present. The site’s boundaries were defined by a wall built around 1775, though before this, the graveyard extended considerably beyond its present confines to both the east and west, indicating a reduction in its physical footprint over time. St. John’s Churchyard served as the final resting place for numerous clergymen and prominent citizens of Kilkenny, including at least twelve Mayors and two Bishops of Ossory, underscoring its historical importance to the city’s civic and religious fabric.
Reverend T.J. Clohosey undertook a significant effort to document the cemetery’s contents between 1953 and 1955. During this comprehensive survey, he recorded 611 monuments, successfully deciphering over 500 of their inscriptions. Reverend Clohosey’s systematic numbering began at the south-eastern corner near the Dublin Road and proceeded in organised lines. The findings of this invaluable survey were later compiled by the Kilkenny Archaeological Society, providing a crucial historical record of the graveyard’s layout and interments before more recent changes.
Key Historical Milestones:
13th Century: Earliest coffin-shaped slabs present.
Pre-Norman: Site of an ancient Irish foundation, possibly “Church of the Barns”.
1211: Three parishes (Fennell, Kilmologga, St. John’s proper) granted to the Augustinian order; beginning of amalgamation.
1628: Referred to as “Sinnotts churchyard, garden and croft”.
1699: Earliest known inscription on a tombstone.
1731: “Old Mass house” in St John’s Parish mentioned.
~1775: Graveyard walled, reducing previous boundaries.
1796: Chapel on site rebuilt.
1800 onwards: Church on site consistently known as St. John’s.
1847: Chapel taken down; site added to graveyard.
1897: New church offered to St. John’s Parish.
1908-1920s: Old church building used as a hall for concerts.
1950s: Old church taken down; stone used for St Kieran’s College.
1953-1955: Rev. T.J. Clohosey conducts a comprehensive survey, recording 611 monuments.
The complex historical narrative of St. John’s Churchyard reveals that its current administrative status, where it’s managed by St. John’s Parish rather than being vested in the Kilkenny County Council, is a continuation of its long-standing, evolving relationship with ecclesiastical authorities. This administrative structure, coupled with the physical changes to its associated church buildings, contributes to the contemporary perception of disaffiliation. However, the historical evidence clearly demonstrates that the graveyard has maintained a continuous, albeit transforming, connection to religious and community life in Kilkenny for centuries.
Management and Maintenance: Understanding the Divided Landscape
The observation that the graveyard is “divided into two sections,” with one being “very much overgrown with vegetation so dense and ground so uneven that I would describe it as dangerous to explore,” while the other is “better maintained and may be more recent in relative terms,” accurately reflects the current state of St. John’s Churchyard. This stark distinction in maintenance levels points directly to differing management approaches or responsibilities within the same historic site.
A critical point of understanding is the graveyard’s current administrative status. St. John’s Churchyard is not vested in Kilkenny County Council (KCC) for its general maintenance; instead, it is explicitly “run by St John’s Parish.” This means that while KCC manages certain burial grounds directly, St. John’s falls under parish ownership and operation, requiring direct engagement with the Parish Priest for matters such as plot purchases or burial records. This administrative distinction is fundamental to comprehending why the general upkeep and maintenance standards might diverge significantly from other public or council-vested cemeteries in Kilkenny. The perception of the graveyard as “unaffiliated” is thus a reflection of its administrative independence from direct local government management, which carries implications for resource allocation and maintenance standards.
Despite not directly managing St. John’s Churchyard, Kilkenny County Council plays a supportive role in the broader conservation of historic graveyards across the county. KCC annually prepares a Graveyard Grant Scheme designed to assist recognised Community Groups/Organisations in the management and maintenance of local graveyards. Eligible projects under this scheme include general graveyard maintenance (including works beneficial for pollinators), graveyard recording schemes, heritage studies, and even costs associated with providing Public Liability Insurance.
Furthermore, KCC’s Environment Section and Heritage Office offer valuable advice and information on various heritage issues, including detailed guidance for the care and conservation of historic graveyards. The Heritage Office actively collaborates with the Kilkenny Heritage Forum on the development and implementation of the County Heritage and Biodiversity Plans. Recent announcements also highlight significant funding allocations, with over €600,000 for heritage projects across Carlow and Kilkenny, nearly €500,000 specifically for Kilkenny, through the Community Monuments Fund. This fund supports the conservation and preservation of historic sites, including graveyards, through collaborative efforts between local authorities, heritage groups, and community organisations. While specific projects mentioned under this fund may not directly include St. John’s, its existence signifies a broader funding mechanism available for such sites if parish or community groups were to apply.
The condition of St. John’s Churchyard has been a subject of recent public discussion and concern. In October 2022, Councillor Eugene McGuinness brought forward a motion to the Kilkenny City Municipal District, proposing a reduction in the height of the stone boundary wall on the Dublin Road side by one metre. The stated aim was to “open up the view of this ancient and historic cemetery” and to implement a “year-round cleaning and maintenance programme” for its proper upkeep. This proposal also sought to deter “anti-social behaviour and littering,” which are common challenges in neglected urban heritage sites. While the motion garnered support from Cllr Maria Dollard, she raised a crucial concern regarding the wall’s status as a protected structure. The Director of Services, Tim Butler, clarified that the graveyard is indeed managed by St. John’s Parish, not vested in the council, and that the council is legally constrained from interfering with a protected structure or funding the relocation of headstones. This exchange underscores a common tension in heritage management: balancing the preservation of historic structures with contemporary concerns such as public access, visibility, and addressing social issues. The “dangerous to explore” condition and instances of anti-social behaviour are direct consequences of neglect and a lack of managed access, but addressing them is complicated by the site’s heritage designation.
The stark contrast in maintenance levels, particularly between the general graveyard and the well-kept section containing war graves, illustrates the impact of dedicated, well-resourced international agencies on local heritage sites. The Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC), responsible for the war graves, operates with specific standards and resources that allow for meticulous upkeep. This level of care, while highly beneficial for the specific graves it maintains, inadvertently serves as a visible benchmark for optimal graveyard maintenance. It highlights the resource disparities and challenges faced by local custodians, such as St. John’s Parish, which may operate with more limited funds or rely heavily on volunteer efforts for a larger, historic site. This situation implies that achieving a similar standard across the entire graveyard would necessitate significant external funding, robust community engagement, or a re-evaluation of administrative responsibilities to bridge these resource gaps and ensure comprehensive upkeep.
Commemorating Sacrifice: War Graves at St. John’s Churchyard
The observation of at least one war veteran’s grave maintained by a British Government agency is accurate. St. John’s Churchyard in Kilkenny is indeed listed on Find a Grave with “Veteran” as a memorial type. More specifically, the Commonwealth War Graves Commission (CWGC) confirms that the “Kilkenny (St. John) Catholic Churchyard” on the Dublin Road contains “4 Commonwealth burials of the 1914-1918 war.” This direct confirmation validates the presence of war graves and the involvement of a British Government agency in their upkeep. It’s important to distinguish this site from the “Kilkenny New Cemetery” on Hebron Road, which also contains Commonwealth war graves (two from World War I), as these are separate locations.
The CWGC is an international organisation responsible for the commemoration and perpetual maintenance of the graves of Commonwealth forces who died in the two World Wars. Their meticulous standards for upkeep, which often include regular cleaning, landscaping, and structural repairs, are directly responsible for the “better maintained” section observed. The presence of these CWGC-maintained graves, held to an international standard, provides a striking visual contrast with other areas of the graveyard. This comparison underscores the impact of dedicated, well-resourced agencies on heritage sites and can highlight the challenges faced by local custodians who may have more limited resources.
The presence of CWGC graves at St. John’s Churchyard is part of a broader and significant commitment in Kilkenny to commemorate its citizens who served in conflicts. The Kilkenny Great War Memorial Committee, established in 2011, has been instrumental in promoting and honouring the memory of over 800 Kilkenny men and five women who lost their lives in World War One. This committee has unveiled major memorials, including one in the Peace Park and another at Kilkenny Railway Station, which remember both those who died and surviving veterans. A poignant example of their work includes the erection of a memorial to Thomas Woodgate, the youngest known Irish casualty of World War I, located off Parliament Street.
Beyond permanent memorials, the committee has engaged in significant public awareness initiatives. In 2015, they created individual crosses for all 3,271 men and women from the county who served, displaying them prominently at Kilkenny Castle. They also meticulously recreated a Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery using 40 replica timber headstones, each representing a parish, for a powerful remembrance ceremony. These efforts, alongside the Kilkenny Military Heritage and Graves Project, which is supported by Kilkenny County Council’s Heritage services, collectively demonstrate a robust local commitment to preserving and honouring military heritage. The presence of internationally recognised war graves can therefore draw attention to the overall condition of a site, potentially stimulating broader conservation efforts for the entire graveyard.
Red Valerian (Valeriana rubra): An Ecological Assessment in a Historic Setting
The observation of Red Valerian dominating the overgrown section of the graveyard and appearing in “many other examples at various locations throughout the city” is consistent with the plant’s ecological characteristics and its established presence in Ireland. Scientifically known as Valeriana rubra (though often still referred to by its synonym Centranthus ruber), this plant is a popular ornamental garden species. It is also known by a variety of evocative common names, including spur valerian, kiss-me-quick, fox’s brush, devil’s beard, and Jupiter’s beard.
Red Valerian is a perennial plant, typically growing as a subshrub with a woody base, and can reach heights of up to 80cm. Its leaves are oval or lanceolate and grow in opposite pairs. The plant flowers profusely from early summer, often continuing sporadically throughout the summer and into autumn in cooler climates. Its small individual flowers, no more than 2mm, form large, showy, rounded clusters. While commonly a brick or purplish red, varieties can also display deep crimson, pale pink, lavender, or white blooms. The flowers possess a strong, somewhat pungent scent and are highly attractive to pollinators such as bees, butterflies, and moths due to the nectar stored in their long, slender spurs. A key factor in its widespread distribution is its efficient wind dispersal mechanism; its seeds are equipped with tufts similar to those of dandelions, allowing for free self-seeding.
Native to the Mediterranean region, encompassing areas from Portugal and Spain to France, Italy, and North Africa, Red Valerian was introduced to Britain in the 1600s and subsequently spread to Ireland, where it has become naturalised. Its frequent appearance around ruins and old settlements suggests a long-standing association with human activity. Ecologically, Red Valerian thrives in dry, poor soils and rocky ground. A particularly notable characteristic is its high tolerance for alkaline conditions, which enables it to grow readily on old walls, bridges, and other vertical masonry surfaces where lime mortar is present. It is also commonly observed along roadsides, in urban wasteland, and on railway embankments. The plant’s dominance in the overgrown section of the Kilkenny graveyard, especially on old structures, aligns perfectly with these ecological preferences.
Regarding its invasive status, while Red Valerian can self-seed freely and is considered invasive in some parts of the world (e.g., South Africa, where it requires compulsory control), its official classification in Ireland differs. The National Biodiversity Data Centre categorises it as a “Non-native species – Low risk of Impact” in Ireland, assigning it an “Invasive score” of 11. It is an “established” species in Ireland, primarily introduced as an ornamental garden escape. However, this “low risk” designation for general biodiversity does not negate its potential harm to built heritage. Its presence on historic structures, such as the walls of a church or graveyard, “may be detrimental”. While aesthetically pleasing and beneficial for insects, its root systems can compromise the structural integrity of masonry over time. A study on Bective Abbey noted that walls “dominated by ivy and red valerian” were excluded from surveys, implying that its pervasive growth can obscure or physically impact structures. It is important to note that Red Valerian is distinct from Common Valerian (Valeriana officinalis), which is used in herbal medicine, as Red Valerian is not known to possess useful medicinal qualities.
The widespread presence of Red Valerian throughout Kilkenny, beyond just the graveyard, is consistent with its naturalised status and ecological adaptability in Ireland. Its wind-dispersed seeds and ability to colonise disturbed, alkaline sites, including old masonry and railway lines, contribute significantly to its ubiquity in urban and historic environments.
The widespread dominance of Red Valerian, particularly in the “overgrown” and “dangerous” section of the graveyard, can be interpreted as an indicator of neglected or unmanaged historic masonry. The plant’s preference for alkaline, disturbed sites means its proliferation signifies areas where mortar is exposed and maintenance is lacking, creating ideal conditions for its growth. The “dangerous to explore” aspect of the overgrown section is exacerbated by this unchecked growth, which further obscures pathways and makes the ground uneven. Therefore, the presence of Red Valerian is not merely a botanical observation but a symptom of the underlying condition of that part of the graveyard, pointing to areas where historic structures are unmanaged and potentially crumbling, providing the perfect substrate for this plant. This highlights a critical distinction: while Red Valerian may pose a low ecological risk to broader biodiversity in Ireland, its specific impact on historic masonry represents a significant heritage conservation challenge.
Characteristics and Status of Red Valerian (Valeriana rubra) in Ireland:
Scientific Name: Valeriana rubra (syn. Centranthus ruber)
Common Names: Red Valerian, Spur Valerian, Kiss-me-quick, Fox’s Brush, Devil’s Beard, Jupiter’s Beard
Plant Type: Perennial, typically a subshrub (woody at base)
Native Region: Mediterranean region (Portugal, Spain, France, Italy, North Africa)
Introduction Pathway: Introduced to Britain in the 1600s, spread to Ireland as garden escape (naturalised)
Irish Status: Established non-native species
Invasiveness Risk (Ireland): Low risk of Impact (Invasive score: 11 by National Biodiversity Data Centre)
Key Habitats: Old stone walls, bridges, disturbed rocky places, urban wasteland, railway embankments; tolerates alkaline conditions
Pollinator Attraction: Attracts bees, butterflies, moths (due to nectar in spurs)
Impact on Historic Masonry: Potentially detrimental; growth on walls can compromise structural integrity of mortar and stone
Conclusions and Recommendations
St. John’s Churchyard on the Dublin Road in Kilkenny is a site of profound historical depth. Its narrative has evolved from an ancient ecclesiastical foundation and a leper hospital to its current status as a parish-run graveyard. Despite the contemporary perception of disaffiliation, its history is layered with evidence of mediaeval burials and continuous use over centuries, serving as the resting place for significant figures in Kilkenny’s past.
The observed disparity in maintenance levels within the graveyard is primarily due to its administrative structure: while the general graveyard is managed by St. John’s Parish, specific war graves are meticulously maintained by the Commonwealth War Graves Commission, highlighting a clear resource gap for comprehensive upkeep. Recent public discussions concerning the graveyard’s boundary wall further underscore the ongoing tension between heritage preservation (particularly for protected structures) and contemporary concerns regarding public amenity, safety, and the mitigation of anti-social behaviour. The widespread dominance of Red Valerian, a plant that thrives on old, alkaline masonry and disturbed sites, is a common characteristic of the species. While classified as “low risk” for general biodiversity in Ireland, its proliferation on historic structures poses a specific and potentially significant threat to the integrity of the built heritage within the graveyard.
The examination of St. John’s Churchyard reveals a complex interplay of historical significance, administrative challenges, and ecological dynamics. The primary challenges include the lack of consistent, comprehensive maintenance for the entire site (beyond the CWGC graves), the potential for structural damage to historic masonry caused by pervasive vegetation like Red Valerian, and the inherent difficulty in balancing the preservation of the site’s historical fabric with the need to ensure public safety and accessibility. Furthermore, instances of anti-social behaviour complicate effective management.
However, these challenges are accompanied by significant opportunities. The site’s rich and multi-layered history, encompassing its mediaeval origins, its association with the Magdalen Hospital, and the presence of war graves, offers substantial potential for heritage tourism and educational initiatives. Kilkenny County Council’s existing grant schemes and the active involvement of local heritage groups provide established avenues for collaborative conservation efforts. Even the presence of Red Valerian, while a management concern, points to the site’s ecological value as a habitat for pollinators.
Based on these findings, the following recommendations are put forth for potential future actions to enhance the preservation, accessibility, and appreciation of St. John’s Churchyard:
Clarify and Formalise Management Responsibilities: St. John’s Parish, as the primary custodian, should formally engage with Kilkenny County Council’s Heritage Office and Environment Section. This engagement should aim to explore and formalise collaborative management strategies, leveraging KCC’s expertise, guidance (such as the “Care and Conservation of Historic Graveyards Booklet”), and potential funding mechanisms. Such a formal partnership would move beyond the current informal engagement and establish a clearer framework for shared responsibility.
Develop a Comprehensive Conservation Management Plan: A detailed survey and conservation plan for the entire graveyard is essential. This plan should encompass both the historical monuments and the ecological elements, with a specific focus on the overgrown section. It should identify areas for sensitive vegetation clearance, ensuring that heritage preservation, ecological considerations (e.g., managing Red Valerian while promoting beneficial flora), and public safety are balanced. This holistic approach would provide a structured method for addressing the “dangerous to explore” conditions.
Implement Targeted Vegetation Management for Red Valerian: Prioritised action should be taken to remove Red Valerian and other potentially damaging vegetation, such as ivy, from historic masonry, gravestones, and the boundary wall. While Red Valerian is classified as “low risk of impact” ecologically in Ireland, its growth on walls is “detrimental” to historic structures. For ground cover, a nuanced approach could be considered, potentially tolerating the plant in non-critical areas where it benefits pollinators, while strictly controlling its spread to prevent further encroachment on monuments.
Enhance Community Engagement and Volunteer Programmes: Active promotion and support for community groups to apply for KCC’s Graveyard Grant Scheme and the Community Monuments Fund are crucial. Establishing a dedicated “Friends of St. John’s Churchyard” volunteer group would further empower local involvement. Community participation is vital for the long-term upkeep of historic sites not directly managed by the council, and grants can provide necessary financial resources for maintenance, recording, and public liability insurance.
Improve Accessibility and Interpretation: While respecting the protected status of the boundary wall, alternative solutions for improving visibility and deterring anti-social behaviour should be explored. These could include improved lighting, strategic planting, or the installation of interpretive signage that highlights the graveyard’s rich history and significance. Considering controlled access points and clear pathways within the maintained section could also enhance visitor experience and safety. Addressing the “dangerous to explore” aspect and anti-social behaviour is fundamental for fostering public engagement and transforming a perceived “overgrown” space into an appreciated heritage asset.
Document and Promote the Site’s Multi-layered Heritage: Leveraging the existing survey by Rev. T.J. Clohosey and undertaking further recording schemes (which are eligible for KCC grants) would fully document all burials and monuments. Promoting the site’s unique history, including its mediaeval origins, connection to the Magdalen Hospital, and the presence of war graves, through online resources, local heritage trails, and educational materials will increase public appreciation and support for its conservation. The “Kilkenny Military Heritage and Graves Project” provides an excellent framework for integrating the war grave narrative into the broader historical understanding of the site.