HEADLESS SOUTH OF THE RIVER

STREET PHOTOGRAPHY

Dublin

28 BROOKFIELD ROAD IN KILMAINHAM IS A HISTORIC COTTAGE IN THE SHADOW OF A HUGE NEW HOSPITAL

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PHOTOGRAPHED BY WILLIAM MURPHY USING A SONY FX30

This charming, attached three-bay, single-storey cottage with attic accommodation, dating back to approximately 1780, stands at 28 Brookfield Road, Kilmainham. A recent glazed sun-room addition to the rear (north-east) elevation complements the original structure. The cottage features a pitched slate roof, complete with a rendered chimneystack, coping, and cast-iron rainwater goods. Clay ridge tiles and painted rubble stone walls contribute to its unique character. Square-headed window openings, framed by masonry lintels and granite sills, house timber frame windows. A square-headed door opening leads to the front, featuring a timber battened door opening onto a granite step.

This modest vernacular dwelling represents a traditional architectural style increasingly scarce in urban environments. It retains much of its original form and fabric, with its small windows and high roof-pitch more reminiscent of rural than urban residences. The painted rubble stone walls, which would originally have been whitewashed, offer a delightful contrast to the prevalent red brick of the street, making it a distinctive feature of the streetscape. However, this historic cottage now faces a dramatic change to its surroundings. Brookfield Road and its immediate environs are currently undergoing a significant transformation with the construction of the vast new Children’s Hospital, a project nearing completion. This imposing development will undoubtedly dominate the landscape, significantly altering the character of Brookfield Road and casting a long shadow, both literally and figuratively, over this small piece of Dublin’s architectural heritage.

EXPLORING A UNIQUE SECTION OF THE LUAS RED LINE

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THE GRASS SECTION BETWEEN THE SUIR ROAD STOP AND THE RIALTO STOP

I visited the area as I wanted to explore the new Children’s Hospital.

From Canal to Rail: The story begins with the Grand Canal, a vital 18th and 19th-century transport network. James’s Street Harbour, a bustling hub connected to Guinness’s operations, was a key part of this system. However, the canal system declined due to the rise of railways, which offered faster and more efficient transport. Ironically, sections of these very canals, including the one connected to James’s Street Harbour, were later filled in. Now, history has come full circle: the LUAS Red Line, a 21st-century light rail system, utilises the path of this filled-in canal, demonstrating how old transport corridors can be repurposed for new technologies.

The Rise and Fall (and Rise Again) of Transport: We see a clear pattern: canals gave way to railways, which in turn faced competition from road transport. The wheel turns again as cities now grapple with traffic congestion and seek more sustainable solutions. Light rail, like the LUAS, re-emerges as a viable option, often utilising existing rights-of-way—in this case, the old canal route.

The Children’s Hospital Connection: Adding another layer to this historical tapestry, the new Children’s Hospital is located on land associated with the original James’s Street area, near the old harbour. This means that the land, once a hub for canal traffic connected to Guinness and other industries, is now home to a major medical facility served by a modern light rail system running along the path of the old canal.

A Full Circle: This sequence of events is a powerful illustration of how urban landscapes evolve. A transport system (canals) becomes obsolete, its infrastructure is repurposed, and then, a new transport system (light rail) reuses that repurposed land. The location of the Children’s Hospital on land associated with the old James’s Street Harbour further emphasises this cycle of change and adaptation. It’s a testament to how cities constantly reinvent themselves, often building the future on the foundations of the past.

THE WIND SHELTERS AND THE BANDSTAND ALONG CLONTARF PROMENADE

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REMAIN AS A TRIBUTE TO HERBERT SIMMS

ERROR THIS IS ON THE NORTH SIDE OF THE LIFFEY

Clontarf promenade is home to a series of remarkable wind shelters and a bandstand, all designed by the influential architect Herbert Simms. These structures, built between 1955 and 1958, are not only functional, providing respite from the elements, but also serve as striking examples of modernist design.

The Wind Shelters:

There are eight freestanding reinforced concrete shelters dotted along the promenade.
Each shelter features a curved concrete roof and walls, with integrated concrete benches providing seating.
They have distinctive round openings to the east and west, allowing for views and ventilation, and two diamond or round openings at the back.
The shelters are considered iconic structures, emblematic of Dublin’s urban landscape.

The Bandstand:

This circular structure, also constructed from reinforced concrete, boasts a unique design.
Its most notable feature is the cantilevered roof, supported by a central column.
While currently fenced off due to structural concerns, it remains a beloved landmark.

Herbert Simms (1898-1948):

Simms was a prominent Dublin City Architect who played a pivotal role in shaping the city’s landscape during the 1930s and 1940s.
He is best known for his work on social housing projects, including the iconic Dublin flat complexes.
Simms’ designs were heavily influenced by the modernist movement, evident in the clean lines and functional aesthetic of the Clontarf structures.
His work often incorporated innovative use of materials like reinforced concrete, as seen in the shelters and bandstand.
Simms’ legacy extends beyond individual buildings; he championed the idea of public amenities and green spaces as integral parts of urban planning.

The wind shelters and bandstand on Clontarf promenade are not merely architectural curiosities; they are testaments to Simms’ vision of a city where form and function coexist, and where public spaces are designed to enhance the lives of its citizens. These structures, now under consideration for protected status, stand as a reminder of Dublin’s rich architectural heritage and the enduring impact of Herbert Simms.

CUFFE STREET ON A REALLY WET DAY

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LEGACY PHOTO CATALOGUE FROM 2022

Cuffe Street, a Dublin thoroughfare running from St. Stephen’s Green to Kevin Street Lower, holds a story of change and evolution mirroring the city’s own. While it may appear unassuming today, its history is interwoven with architectural shifts, urban planning decisions, and social housing initiatives.

Early Days:

First appearing on maps in 1728, Cuffe Street was named for James Cuffe. Even earlier, Herman Moll’s 1714 map shows buildings along its north side. By 1756, it was known as “Great Cuffe Street” on John Rocque’s map of Dublin. The early 1700s saw the construction of predominantly gable-fronted houses, known as “Dutch Billys.” These distinctive dwellings were later modified during the Georgian and Victorian periods, contributing to the street’s evolving architectural character.

A Changing Landscape:

The most dramatic transformation occurred in the mid-20th century. Dublin Corporation’s road widening schemes, intended to modernise the city’s infrastructure, led to the demolition of many of Cuffe Street’s historic buildings. This drastic intervention resulted in the current dual carriageway and tree-lined appearance, prioritising traffic flow over the preservation of architectural heritage.

The Lost Buildings:

Among the casualties of the road widening was 49 Cuffe Street, once home to the Bricklayers’ and Stonecutters’ Guild. Originally built as St. Peter’s Parish Savings Bank, the building was later expanded and repurposed. Despite efforts to save its façade, it was demolished in 1985. As of 2021, the remaining elements are reportedly held in storage by Dublin City Council.

Another significant loss was the Winter Garden Palace, a prominent landmark at the corner of Cuffe Street and St. Stephen’s Green. This historic pub, dating back to the 1860s, was a meeting place for Fenian groups and played a role in the 1916 Easter Rising. Compulsory purchase orders in the 1960s led to its demolition in 1975, along with surrounding residential and retail areas.

The Ardilaun Centre and the Iveagh Garden Hotel:

The site of the Winter Garden Palace and its neighbouring buildings was redeveloped by MEPC plc in the late 1970s. The resulting office complex, named the Ardilaun Centre, was designed by Costello, Murray and Beaumont and built by Sisk Group.

The Iveagh Garden Hotel now stands where the Ardilaun Centre once stood. It was built in the late 2000s by the O’Callaghan Hotel Group and opened in 2009. While initially facing some planning delays, it eventually began operation and remains a prominent feature at the eastern end of Cuffe Street.

Cuffe Street Today:

Cuffe Street today reflects the complexities of Dublin’s urban development. The road widening schemes, while intended to modernize the city, resulted in the loss of much of its historic character. The presence of social housing projects underscores the city’s efforts to address housing needs, while also contributing to the street’s less commercial atmosphere.

Though lacking the vibrancy of some neighbouring streets, Cuffe Street remains an integral part of Dublin’s urban fabric. It’s a place where the past lingers amidst the present, offering a glimpse into the city’s ongoing transformation.

BULLOCK HARBOUR IN DALKEY LEGACY PHOTO COLLECTION 3 JULY 2022

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I USED AN APPLE iPHONE 12 PRO MAX WITH HALIDE

Bullock Harbour, located in the coastal town of Dalkey, County Dublin, is a picturesque working harbour steeped in history. The harbour, sometimes spelled Bulloch, derives its name from the imposing Bulloch Castle, a 12th-century Norman structure overlooking the harbour. Built by the Cistercian monks of St. Mary’s Abbey, the castle served to protect the valuable fisheries they controlled in the area.  

Over the centuries, Bullock Harbour has been a vital hub for the local community, supporting fishing, trade, and transport. The current harbour walls, constructed from local granite in the early 19th century, replaced a natural rocky inlet that provided initial shelter for boats. Today, it remains a working harbour, home to fishing boats, yachts, and the Dalkey Sea Scouts. It’s also a popular spot for leisurely walks, with stunning views of Dublin Bay and the surrounding coastline.  

Despite its idyllic setting, Bullock Harbour has been at the centre of ongoing property and planning disputes. Recent development proposals for the former Western Marine site have faced local opposition and appeals to An Bord Pleanála (Ireland’s planning board). Concerns centre around the scale and density of proposed developments, their potential impact on the harbour’s character, and the preservation of public access to the waterfront. These disputes highlight the challenges of balancing development with the preservation of heritage and community values in a highly sought-after coastal location.